Saturday, July 13, 2013

TMI Trek to Harishchadragad: Dream Destination of every Trekker - 22nd-23rd June '13.



Harishchandragad:
Type: Hill Fort
Height: 4500 Feet above MSL (Approx)
Grade: Medium (5.5 hrs trek)
Region: Malshej Ghats
Base Village: Khireshwar









History[edit]

The fort is quite ancient. Remnants of Microlithic man have been discovered here. The various Puranas (ancient scriptures) like Matsyapurana, Agnipurana and Skandapuranainclude many references about Harishchandragad. Its origin is said to have been in 6th century, during the rule of Kalachuri dynasty. The citadel was built during this era. The various caves probably have been carved out in the 11th century. In these caves are idols of Lord Vishnu. Though the cliffs are named Taramati and Rohidas, they are not related to Ayodhya. Great sage Changdev (one who created the epic Tatvasaar), used to meditate here in 14th century. The caves are from the same period. The various constructions on the fort and those existing the surrounding region point to the existence of diverse cultures here. The carvings on the temples of Nageshwar (in Khireshwar village), in the Harishchandreshwar temple and in the cave of Kedareshwar indicate that the fort belongs to the medieval period, since it is related to Shaiva, Shakta or Naath. Later the fort was under the control of Moguls. The Marathas captured it in 1747.






Saptatirtha Pushkarni


To the east of the temple is a well-built lake called “Saptatirtha”. On its bank are temple-like constructions in which there are idols of Lord Vishnu. Recently these idols have been shifted in the caves near the temple of Harishchandreshwar. These days many trekkers have been responsible for the sad plight of this beautiful place, as they throw plastic wastes and other things in the pond. 7 years back the water was potable, and now it isn't suitable even to swim. (but one thing is sure this water is so chill in summer also that you can actually feel like you are standing in a refrigeration unit.)






Kedareshwar Cave



Going rightwards of Harishchandreshwar temple, we come across a huge cave. This is the cave of Kedareshwar (see picture), in which there is a big Shivlinga, which is totally surrounded by water. The total height from its base is five feet, and the water is waist-deep. It is quite difficult to reach the Shivlinga because the water is ice-cold. There are sculptures carved out here. In monsoon it is not possible to reach this cave, as a huge stream flows across the way.

As you can see from the picture, there is a huge rock above the Shiva Linga. There were 4 pillars built around the Shiva Linga. No one really knows the history about these pillars, but it is said that the pillars were built to depict the four 'Yugas' of Life - 'Satya Yuga', 'Tretha Yuga', 'Dwapara Yuga' and 'Kali Yuga'. When a Yuga comes to the end of its time, one of the pillars apparently breaks down. Three of the pillars have already broken down. The general belief is that the current phase is the 'Kali Yuga' and the day the fourth pillar breaks down - it will be looked to as the last day of the current era.
Another interesting thing about this place is that water is said to seep into this temple from the four walls on an everyday basis. And owing to the water being very chilly, it's difficult to reach inside too. The water continues to seep in during all the seasons in the year, except during rainy season and surprisingly, it is also said that there is absolutely no water there during rainy seasons alone.





Konkan Kada (Konkan cliff)



The most interesting point on this fort is this cliff, which has always fascinated many people from many years. The cliff faces west and looks down upon the Konkan. From here, one can have a breathtaking view of the surrounding region and the setting sun. This cliff is not just vertical, it is an overhang, almost like a cobra's hood. It has been climbed many times. Sometimes a circular rainbow (the Brocken spectre phenomenon) can be seen from this point. It can be seen only when there is a bit of mist in the valley, and the sun is right behind the person facing the valley.


 One amazing phenomenon that can be observed at this place is the vertical cloud burst, in which the clouds nearing the cliff get sucked into the pit fall area below are thrown vertically into the sky reaching more than 50 feet (15 m).

 It creates a magical wall that is rising straight from the edge of the cliff without entering the landmass area. The fog show and hovering clouds below the cliff complement the season if one visits.






Temple of Harishchandreshwar



This temple is marvelous example of the fine art of carving sculptures out of stones that prevailed in ancient India. It is about 16 m high from its base. Around this temple there a few caves & ancient water tanks. The river Mangal Ganga is said to originate from one of the tanks located close to the temple. The top of the temple resembles construction with the north-Indian temples. A similar temple is situated in Buddha-Gaya. Here we can see many tombs, in which a typical construction is seen. These are built by well-finished arranging stones one on top of the other. There are three main caves near the temple. The cisterns near the temple provide drinking water. A short distance away, another temple called Kashitirtha is located. The fascinating thing about this temple is that it has been carved out from a single huge rock. There are entrances from all four sides. On the main entrance there are sculptures of faces. These are faces of guards of the temple. On the left side of the entrance is a Devnagri inscription, which is about saint Changdev.





Ways to reach



Harishchandragad lies where the boundaries of Thane, Pune and Ahmednagar districts converge.
1) From Thane District: One has to board the bus for Nagar from Kalyan & alight at ‘Khubi Phata’. From there we reach the village of Khireshwar by bus or private vehicle. This village is 7 km from the foothills of the fort.
2) From Pune District: There is a daily bus from Shivajinagar ST stand (Pune) to Khireswar village.
3) From Ahmednagar District: One has to board the bus for Nasik or Mumbai & alight at Ghoti village. From Ghoti, we have to board another bus to Sangamner via Malegaon & alight at Rajur village. From here, 2 ways diverge to the fort. 1) From Rajur, one has to board the bus or a private vehicle to the village of Pachanai. From here, the way is straight to the topmost point. 2) Recently, the way from Rajur to kothale(Tolar Khind) has been made available. From Tolar Khind (Tolar valley), the temple is about 2–3 hours by walking. 3) from kotul to kothale bus facilities available way to tolar khind every hour bus going towards kothale ,private vehicles also available on this route.






Basic Info: Harishchandragad is a beautiful hill fort in the Ahmednagar region and a very popular trekking destination. The fort mountain along with, TOLAR KHIND, MALSHEJ GHAT offers a lot for trekkers. The main attraction here is the KONKAN KADA which offers a spectacular view of Konkan. During the rainy season you'd be walking in the clouds on this fort.


Routes:
From Pune: Head towards ALEPHATA on NH 50 (Nasikh highway) which is approx 96 kms from Pune. From ALEPHATA turn left to reach a small town named OTUR. From OTUR reach the village KHIRESHWAR which is the base village. THE ROAD FROM OTUR TO KHIRESHWAR IS ALONG THE WATERS OF PIMPALGAON JOGA DAM, here you will have a amazing view of natural beauty.
From Mumbai: From Mumbai reach KALYAN, From KALYAN head on NH 222 towards MALSHEJ GHAT. After ascending MALSHEJ GHAT there is a diversion for the village KHIRESHWAR. PLZ ASK THE LOCALS FOR THIS DIVERSION.

After reaching the village KHIRESHWAR you can start your trek through TOLAR KHIND.
There are 2 more alternate routes to Harishchandragad, but we would recommend you go via Khireshwar coz this is the best route and offers good view while trekking and is a bit tough.


Difficulty Level and Other useful tips:
Difficulty level is Moderate.On a scale of 1 to 10, We'd say 8 with 1 being very easy.
Height above sea level: 4710 feet.
It takes approximately 6 hours to reach to the top of Harischandragad where you'd find the Harishchandrareshwar temple. There are many rocky patches and steep climbs enroute. Carry plenty of water, the water tanks on the fort do not offer potable water except monsoons.Take enough care through the forest and rocky climbs. Enjoy the experience you earn here…..the nature at its best.

Camping Info:
Harishchandragad is the best fort in Maharashtra for camping. There are 2 caves which can be used for camping. These 2 caves can accomodate atleast 100 persons. UNFORTUNATELY, we had to sleep under a man made shelter as we were late to start the trek.
Carry plenty of food and water with you as there's no source of anything edible on the fort.
Also ensure that you gather enough firewood before nightfall as the temperature during winters is really low at Harishchandragad.
Carry enough insulating material to keep you warm.

What to see on the fort:
  1. KEDARESHWAR CAVE - This temple is marvelous example of the fine art of carving sculptures out of stones that prevailed in ancient India. The river Mangal Ganga is said to originate from one of the tanks located close to the temple.
  2. KONKAN KADA - A huge cliff at Harishchandragad which offers spectacular view of Konkan and also the sunset.
  3. OTHER CAVES - There are many caves on this fort.
  4. KEDARESHWAR CAVE: In this cave there is a Shivlinga which is surrounded by ice cold water. During rainy season this cave is not accessible as there's lot of water in the surrounding area.
  5. TARAMATI PEAK: Also known as Taramanchi. This is the topmost point on the fort. It is the 2nd highest peak in Maharashtra. Leopards are seen in the forests beyond this peak. From here we can have a glimpse of the whole range of Naneghat and the forts near Murbad.